HOW-TO: Set The Injection Pump Timing

...

Tue, 03 Aug 2010 17:54:26 +0100

Hi, I replaced the pump my Rabbit pickup, all of the timing marks line up perfect but still pours white smoke when running. I have rotated the pump in both directions and it still smokes just as bad. Im out of ideas? Thanks Jason - Jason

...

Sat, 26 Jun 2010 01:11:55 +0100

Hi mate Great read for the IP timing,i like your methodicalness to everything,do you happen to know what the setting is for the IP timing on my VW T4 1.9TD 2001 ABL Bosch pump vernier pulley type. thanks - Rick

...

Wed, 12 May 2010 15:28:10 +0100

Vince- Great write up with very useful pics. Do you have any experience with trying to set the timing on 84 rabbit diesel that might have gasser flywheel. I am not finding the usual tdc mark. Rather, I have 0 and marks for before and after tdc. Do I use the 0 mark? Or is it 6 degrees before tdc? - Robert

...

Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:51:13 +0100

Thank you so much for this excellent guide, Vince. It has really been helpful. A while ago, a workshop managed to bust my diesel pump during emission test at MOT. They denied responsibility and acted like bastards, tried to fool me once or twice with bull shit fault diagnostics. I got better advice on the internet, and ended up swapping the pump at my self. Pump timing ended up at 1,01 mm. I wonder if it will consume less diesel if I try 0,90? Car is a T3 with 1,6 TD (JX). [i] Hey Harald... thanks for your comments. My completely personal opinion is that the engine will provide the best fuel economy when it's got the optimum amount of advance... it's producing power most efficiently and so the driver uses his right foot less... imho the right foot being the single biggest cause of poor economy!! So, I think if your engine is happy with the advance you've got and you retard the timing you're likely to see your fuel economy get worse rather than better. Of course there are many other factors... the static timing setting is really only the beginning of the timing curve... but it's been my experience that within reason a bit more advance is better, economy-wise, than a bit less. Vince[/i] - Harald

...

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 09:13:31 +0100

PS If you have a large "crows foot" socket, you can stick it in the holes on the side of the cam sprocket, then hold onto the crowsfoot sideways with an adjustable wrench. This holds the cam sprocket very securely and lets you be comfortable that you're not damaging the cam lobes. I trust you and Tyler know what you're doing, but even looking at that picture of the wrench on the lobe makes me nervous. Luke [i] Great additions Luke... thanks!! Vince[/i] - Luke

...

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 09:08:19 +0100

Thanks for the great write up, Vince. In case it helps anyone shopping in advance, the groove in my camshaft (and therefore the thickness of the brass hinge you want) is almost exactly 4.5mm. This is on a CR engine with 11mm head (early 81), I don't know if it differs on other models. I purchased a 3 1/2" brass hinge from Gateworks at Lowes; it needs to be folded closed to measure correctly (ie, each wing is only half that) but it folds totally flush with itself so it's a non-issue. I've used the proper VW tool and this works every bit as well. Also, in case you're here because you're also doing the head gasket, using a 2 1/2" U-shaped exhaust clamp from the autoparts store to remove/install the C spring clamps that hold on the toilet bowl style exhaust header works PERFECTLY. http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/index.shtml#ExhaustClampTool [IMG]http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/Images/VwExhaustClapTool_t.jpg[/IMG] Luke - Luke

...

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 15:05:19 +0100

Heh Vince, Thanks for this page. Really helps out. FYI Baz says the timing setting for the AAB engine is 1.00 mm +-0.02mm. Thanks again for all of your help bro. - mitch

...

Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:43:19 +0100

Vincent, just replied to your very helpful post on VW Vortex...I have got a far as timing the pump...need to get a dial gauge, and will then follow your advice. Thanks again dude! Dan - Dan

...

Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:39:32 +0100

Increasing the timing a bit, boosts power, but what does it do to fuel economy? - Ken

...

Mon, 25 Aug 2008 05:41:42 +0100

Worked out what it was :'( I was using the wrong marking as TDC. Now I have doubled checked and noticed there are two raised notches with the TDC marker in the middle. Stupid mistake but no damage done. - iain ambrose

...

Mon, 25 Aug 2008 05:34:26 +0100

...

Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:53:46 +0100

I been trying to get my 1.9 AAZ golf repaired after a cambelt failure. I have rebuild the head and put everything back together ok. The problem I have is getting it running. I have followed your guide and have been able to get it all timed up including the pump. When I try to start the car it turns over, fires up and immediately dies. If I floor the throttle it again fires but this time dies with a bit white smoke coming from the engine bay. Oddly enough, whilst messing around I deliberately put the pump one notch out and the car started up no problem. There was obviously a problem though as it was knocking badly, but it did drive fine albeit noisily. After a fair drive I rechecked and found a follower had been broken off! If the flywheel was bolted on wrong surely all the valves would have been destroyed again? I did have a look when the head was off and the TDC marked seemed to match TDC on cylinder number 1. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Iain. - iain ambrose

...

Tue, 05 Aug 2008 00:35:00 +0100

I just bought a replacement ip for my 97 1.9TD AAZ. It's a second hand unit. Unfortunately, someone has loosened the pulley via the centre bolt so that the pulley can spin on the shaft without the pump moving. (timing referance mark will obviously not line up for the initial setting due to there being no keyway on the shaft. Hope you understand this, very difficult to describe) Is there a way to set up the pump so that the pump locking pin can be fitted to the pump in the correct position ie how do I refit the pulley in the right position on the shaft? Many thanks, great write up. Regards, Graham Hi Graham: I just got my first AAZ with the adjustable pulley and haven't played with it much. However, while looking at it and talking to a guy who does this for a living it appears that you can set it the old-fashioned way (dial-indicator). With enough fooling around you might be able to get the index pin setting back. If you post this question at www.vwdiesel.net someone with more recent experience might know how to set the pulley on the bench... that's how the pros do it evidently. If you do find out how to do it on the bench I'd be very interested to know !! Vince - Graham

...

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:17:13 +0100

I have a 95 Jetta 1.9 TDI and I let the shop replace my water pump last week. Immidiately after it started rough and smokin' out the rear pretty bad. Now the injector pump is dead. Did the shop cause this? It ran beutifully until they did the water pump. - Will

...

Sat, 26 Jul 2008 17:09:54 +0100

i'm in the process of rebuilding my 1.6na and i can't seem to figure out how to put the ip in the correct position to start the timing process. i don't know if the ip has been turned, so i don't know where it is to begin with. that may be confusing...but i have the engine at tdc, so is there a measurement with the dial gauge that i can put my ip on to start timing the engine? thanks matt - matt mcbride

...

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 12:01:56 +0100

Vincent, thanks for the reply on the 1992 Jetta TDI it's very helpfull. I also was able to get a second opinion and they were also figured something with the cooling system or thermostat. I put in a new radiator and the fans are working properly. So we are down to two things, thermostat or perhaps the timing? Other than no power when the timing is off, it would not overheat? The car heats up not even with in 10 min. Dangerous level. I'm trying to keep the car only because it has 58K miles on it, I've purchased it when it had 12K, never had problems, until the fuel pump started leaking. Had it serviced, along with changing of timing belt. Now overheating. Any other suggestions? I've personally never experienced poor timing causing large temp problems... certainly not to the point of overheating.... usually there are other timing symptoms (large amounts of smoke, for example) that are far more evident. At this point I've be inclined to pull the thermostat and test it (the Bentley has the procedure but basically you drop it in a pot of boiling water and ensure it opens). I wonder if it isn't jammed partially or fully closed... 10 minutes sounds about what you'd expect if that was the case. If it seems iffy they are cheap to replace.. just make sure you test the new one in boiling water as well... they have been known to fail new and that would send you on another goose chase for sure !! Vince - Ricardo Ramirez

...

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 16:51:09 +0100

Just had shop change timming belt on my 1992 Jetta TDI, ran the car was very sluggish, car heated up and blew head gasket. Mechanic replaced head, etc.. Car is still heating up. Mechanic is not familiar with diesel cars, so I'm thinking from what I've read that timinig was set wrong and is cause car to heat up. Am I correct in this regard? Your feedback would be appreciated. I'm actually getting a copy of this page to take to him so that he sets the timing correctly. Hi Richardo... hmmm... you're not having much luck !! My experience has been that diesels are not particularly susceptible to timing issues causing big heat problems... at least directly. More often mis-timing causes a lack of power which causes you to drive hard which generates more heat. In your case you've replaced the headgasket which is a common cause... I'd be inclined to dig into the cooling system more. Things like: Does the rad fan come on ? Does the lower rad hose get hot (indicating that the thermostat is working) ? When was the last time the thermostat was replaced ? Is there good flow of coolant thru the rad ?? When the headgasket went did it clog the engine and rad with oil ? Certainly the timing needs to be accurate for proper engine operation, so it's good that you're going to ensure your mechanic is setting that properly, but I'd be more suspicious of an issue with the cooling system itself at this point. Just an Internet guess... best of luck !! Vince - Ricardo

...

Wed, 28 May 2008 08:03:02 +0100

I am having a problem with the timing belt. I have the Injection pump pulley locked in the correct location, the cam is locked at TDC, The flywheel mark is sitting directly under the TDC mark arrow, verified as correct while the head was off. When I set the belt tensioner to the correct tension, the mark on the flywheel moves either to the left or right, depending on which way I move the tensioner while adjusting it. It's not off by a lot, 1/2 a cm approx. I have pulled the belt off and adjusted it 3 times, I get the same thing everytime. Suggestions? Hi Jim... my experience is that this means you need to loosen the camshaft sprocket so that it can rotate and take up the slack rather than the crankshaft rotating. If you've already tried that then my other suggestion is to be really really sure you have the timing belt in exactly the right teeth on the sprocket... it should line up !! My money is on loosening the cam sprocket so that its free to rotate... let us know what you find out !! Vince - Jim (subsonic)

...

Tue, 27 May 2008 17:52:54 +0100

Thanks for the great info! I have one thing to add. If you ever replace the IP pump with a rebuilt, It is recommended to prime it first with diesel. Otherwise you void the warranty and you will cause damage to the IP. Crank it over with (YOUR HAND) and add a little diesel to the pump. I believe thats correct. Don't quote me on this. It should say in the shop manual for the correct priming instructions. Good luck with everyones project!!!!! Hi Kevin... thanks for your comment. The injection pump is self-priming (comes in handy if you ever run out of fuel!) but I can see the manufacturer of a new pump wanting you to fill it so that the internals are not bone dry when you crank it over. Filling it is one way... my personal favorite is to apply suction at the "out" banjo fitting (a brake bleeding pump works well) until a bubble-free stream of diesel comes out. This primes the entire system: lines, filter, and pump, and makes sure that everything is completely ready to go when you attempt your first start. Again.. thanks for your comments !! Vince - Kevin M.

...

Sun, 25 May 2008 06:40:27 +0100

Thanks Vince for this remarkable guide . I found your timing step by step description far superior to any manual or web site I have read so far. I also want to thank you for your contribution to the IDI-TDI forum. Haybayian Thanks for your kind words Philppe... it's a fun hobby full of people that love to share... I've learned tons from many many other diesel enthusiasts and I think it's our duty to keep the VW diesel torch lit !!! Vince - Philippe